I Love Touring Italy – Western Sicily

If you will be touring Europe, why not consider the island of Sicily, a region of southern Italy? Depending on your particular interests, this beautiful island can be an ideal vacation spot. You can get eat really great Italian food, and wash it down with fine local wine. And several parts of Sicily are yet to be discovered by tourists. This article presents western Sicily. A companion article presents eastern Sicily. Another companion article presents Sicily’s capital, Palermo.

We’ll start our western Sicilian tour in Monteale on the Tyrrhenian Sea just west of the capital of Palermo. We’ll meander east and south to the city of Marsala on the Mediterranean Sea, and then head southeast along the Mediterranean Sea to Agrigneto.

Monteale, is a city of about thirty thousand, is situated a few miles southwest of Sicily’s capital Palermo. It is best known for its Duomo (Cathedral), which like so many other Sicilian churches is a product of the Norman conquest. This Cathedral was built from the years 1174 to 1185. The Monteale Duomo is often considered the finest example of Norman architecture in all of Sicily, and believe me there are a lot of competitors.

Can you believe that the interior of this magnificent building contains much more than an acre of gold mosaics? Everywhere you look there is plenty to see, for example, the bronze doors contain over forty biblical scenes, while the north door has over forty panels of evangelists and saints. Make sure to visit the nearby cloister surrounded by beautifully decorated glass mosaics. Finish your tour on the belvedere with its magnificent view of the Conca d’Oro (Golden Conch) Valley.

The town of Erice whose population is less than thirty thousand lies about one half mile above sea level. You’ll love its two castles, Pepoli Castle dating from Saracen (Arabic) times and Venus Castle dating from Norman times, built on what some say was the most famous Greek temple dedicated to the goddess Venus. The city contains the remains of walls from the days of the Phoenicians and the little known Elymians, perhaps descendants of the Trojans. Erice holds many scientific conferences. Capo San Vito is a cape situated approximately twenty-five miles (forty kilometers) northeast of Erice. It claims to have the most beautiful beach in all of Italy. Every September it holds a five-day international competition for couscous, a North African semolina-based dish.

The abandoned city of Segesta, about an hour’s drive southwest of Sicily’s capital Palermo, is home to one of the best-preserved Greek Temples, built by Elymians under Greek rule around 430 B.C. Legend has it that they built the temple to impress the Athenians of their wealth in order to enlist Athens against a nearby city supported by Siracuse. Once Athen’s envoys Segesta left work on the temple stopped. The temple remains incomplete, but magnificent. Segesta also boasts the ruins of a Greek amphitheater that presents classic Greek theater (in Italian), a Norman castle, and a small church.

The city of Marsala whose population is about eighty thousand was the major Carthaginian base in Sicily during its wars against Greece and Rome. The city name comes from the Arabic words for great port or Ali’s port. Marsala played an important role in Italian history as the landing point of Italian national hero Garibaldi’s one thousand red shirt combatants who fought for the reunification of Italy.

Today Marsala brings to mind the wine much loved by the British (and others) for well over two hundred years. Should you visit this city make sure to see the Museo Archeologico Baglio Anselmi (Baglio Anselmi Archeological Museum) with its warship and artifacts believed to date from the First Punic War in 241 B.C. You may also want to make reservations to visit the Donnafugata Winery in downtown Marsala. Yes, they do give samples. We have reached the western tip of the island and now head south and east.

Selinunte was the site of a Greek colony founded in the Seventh Century B. C. This colony prospered for hundreds of years until destroyed by the Carthaginians in 409 B. C. Thousands of its inhabitants were slaughtered and most who weren’t killed were enslaved. The city’s seven temples were destroyed; only one has been restored but the ancient market has been excavated.

We terminate our virtual tour of western Sicily at Agrigento, historic city and site of Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples) arguably the finest Greek ruins outside of Greece. The classic Greek poet Pindar called it “the most beautiful city built by mortal men.” Prepare your trip carefully, summers in this part of the world are very, very hot, and while you don’t want to get sick, you don’t want to rush through the site which contains several buildings worth visiting.

Each one of the Valle dei Templi temples is unique. We’ll briefly examine five of them, going from west to east. The Tempio di Castore e Polluce (Temple of Castor and Pollux) is somewhat messy. It was reconstructed well over one hundred years ago by people who didn’t know what they were doing. They slapped together elements from diverse ruins on the site. The Tempio di Giove (Temple of Jupiter) was never completed. At more than 330 feet (about 130 meters) long it was one of the largest Greek temples ever built. The Tempio di Ercole (Temple of Hercules) is the most ancient of these temples. It was partially reconstructed over eighty years ago. The Tempio della Concordia (Temple of Concord) is said to be the best-preserved Greek temple on earth. In the Sixth Century it was converted into a Christian church and restored in the Eighteenth Century. Everything is still there except for the roof and the treasury. Not surprisingly, you are not allowed inside but you can appreciate it from a reasonable distance. The Tempio di Giunone (Temple of Juno) offers a spectacular view of the valley below. Believe it or not traces remain of a fire that burned over twenty-four hundred years ago.

Across from the Temple of Castor and Pollux are several small temples that you may want to see as well. The Hellenistic and Roman Quarter consists of four ancient streets paved with mosaics and a few Roman house foundations. Right nearby is the Museo Archeologica Regionale (Regional Archeological Museum) with lots of antiquities. What about food? Sicily’s great food goes back as far as its beautiful buildings and ruins. Every conquest, and there were several, brought new foods to this island. Sometimes new foods such as tomatoes made their way peacefully to Sicilian tables. Organic food has become fairly popular in Sicily. Of all the Italian regions only the neighboring island of Sardinia produces more organic food. Certified Sicilian food products include olives, olive oil, cheese, tomatoes, oranges, table grapes (I prefer them fermented), and pears.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Macco (Fava Bean puree). Then try Involtini alla Siciliana (Meat Roulade stuffed with Salami and Cheese). For dessert indulge yourself with Sgrappino (Whipped Lemon Sherbert with Spumante). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We’ll conclude with a quick look at Sicilian wine. Sicily is number one among Italy’s twenty regions when it comes to the acreage devoted to wine grapes and to the total annual wine production. And an independent Sicily would be the world’s seventh largest wine producer. It may be surprising but only slightly more than fifty percent of Sicilian wine is red. Sicily produces nineteen DOC wines. The term DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which we can translate as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. Only about 2% of Sicilian wine carries this sometimes prestigious classification. But there are many Sicilian wines without the DOC classification, sometimes by choice.

I Love Touring Italy – Latium East of Rome

If you are in the market for a European tourist destination, you should consider the Latium region of central western Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Latium, also known as Laszio, is the region that includes Italys capital Rome, the Eternal City. Because it is so easy to find articles describing the multiple pleasures of Rome, we are going to write about the lesser-known attractions of Latium. This article focuses on Latium east of Rome. A companion article describes Latium west of Rome.

Well start our tour Tivoli about 22 miles (35 kilometers) northeast of Rome. Well head northeast to Subiaco. Well double back to Palestrina, which is south and a bit east of Tivoli. Then it is south to Ninfa and Sermoneta before heading southeast to Sperlonga on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Well head back northwest along the coast to finish our tour at Anzio. You may want to continue northwest along the coast to Ostia Antica, Ancient Rome’s port city, which is not described in the present article.

Tivoli is famous as the site of Hadrians Villa, a not so little getaway retreat for one of Romes most famous emperors, built in the early Second Century. During the latter years of his rule ran the empire from this villa. The site exceeds a square kilometer (over 250 acres) and contains more than thirty buildings, some of which are yet to be excavated. A large part of this villas decorations and statues can be found in the Vatican Museums. Hadrian liked the dome on an Egyptian temple called Serapeum and transplanted the design to his villa. A prominent architect of the day begged to differ, comparing Hadrians design to a pumpkin. Can you guess how this story ends? Hadrians Villa is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unfortunately part of the site is on the World Monuments Watch 100 Most Endangered Sites list. You may recognize this villa from the HBO film series, Angels in America.

Villa dEste is another UNESCO World Heritage Site in Tivoli. It is a beautiful water garden, reminiscent of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. This villa was founded in the mid-Sixteenth Century by Cardinal Ippolito of dEste, son of Lucrezia Borgia, after not being chosen as Pope during a lengthy conclave. His loss was the worlds gain. Just to give you an idea of its scope; one of the pathways is called the Avenue of One Hundred Fountains. Make sure that you visit the Fontana di Rome, a scale model of Ancient Roman, demolished but partially rebuilt.

The city of Subiaco, population about ten thousand, is the site of the Roman Emperor Neros villa, said to compete with Hadrians villa, constructed decades later. However, Neros villa is in ruins. You can see these ruins on your way to the cave in which St. Benedict lived for several years and founded his Sixth Century Monastery, which is still standing today. The Monastery contains numerous frescoes, some over one thousand years old. The nearby abbey was the site of Italys first print shop, founded in 1464. You can well imagine the contents of its library.

Palestrina, whose population numbers some 18 thousand, was settled in the Seventh or Eighth Century B. C. under the name Praeneste. Like many cities near Rome, its graves often contain Etruscan artifacts. About two thousand years ago this area was a favorite summer resort for wealthy Romans who mocked the uncultured local inhabitants. The ancient city of Praeneste contained the Temple of Fortuna Primigenia, one of the largest temple complexes in the ancient world. Fortuna was the goddess of fertility, abundance, and success. People came from near and far to pray for her good graces.

Youll also want to see the Seventeenth Century Palazzo Barberini (Barberini Palace) housing the Museo Nazionale Archeologico di Palestrina (Palestrina Nation Archeology Museum) with its collection of Roman and Etruscan pieces and a two-thousand year mosaic that depicts the flooding of the Nile River. And theres a model of the temple in its full glory.

The town of Ninfa was once owned by the Popes. During the Fourteenth Century Pope Clement VII destroyed the town in an internal war. For about six hundred years it lay in ruins, largely because of the malarial mosquitoes in the nearby marshes. And then in 1920 an aristocratic English artist, Ada Wilbraham, married a member of the Caetani family that had been given the city way back in 1297 by Pope Boniface II, another Caetani. Wilbraham began the restoration that has continued to this day. The site includes a bridge and seven churches from Roman times, a castle, and the city wall, all in a state of arrested decay. The restored medieval town hall has hosted famous writers including Ezra Pound, Henry James, and T.S. Elliott. Its visiting hours are quite restricted.

The little town of Sermoneta also belonged to the Caetani family who built a castle to defend it in the Thirteenth Century. Pope Alexander VI, the father of Lucrezia Borgia, drew the line dividing Portuguese South America (Brazil) and Spanish South America (everywhere else). He seized the castle in the Fifteenth Century and transformed it into a fortress before giving it to his son Cesare. Later it returned to the Caetani family. Besides the castle you should see the Cathedrale and the wall paintings in the ruined San Giuseppe (St. Josephs) Church.

Sperlonga was a resort in the days of the Romans. The Roman Emperor Tiberius built a villa called Grotta di Tiberio, but it was more of a palace than a grotto. The dining room was situated on an island in the villas pool. As luck would have it, the grotto collapsed during an imperial party, but a government official saved Tiberiuss life. The site now is home to a museum, Museo Nazionale, which displays statues and artifacts from the villa. Make sure to see the massive statue of Odysseus blinding a Cyclops. The beautiful beach south of town is great for strolling and for swimming.

We head northwest along the Tyrrhenian Sea to finish our tour at Anzio. This city of about 45,000 people was the birthplace of Roman Emperors Caligula and Nero, who built a magnificent villa long since destroyed. Anzio is a resort area with high-quality beaches. Between January 22 and May 24, 1944 Anzio and neighboring Nettuno were the site of a major World War II battle, Operation Shingle. The Allied invasion was said to be one of the most complete surprises in military history. However, the battle itself was quite deadly and proved to be controversial. The city contains the Anzio Beachhead British Military Cemetery and a Beachhead Museum. The American Military Cemetery is in Nettuno.

What about food? Latium cuisine is one of abundance. The best cuts of meat were reserved for the rich and the poor had to make do with the rest, including feet, heart, kidneys, tongue, and tripe. Lets not forget the pasta, which is said to be among the best in Italy. Fettuccine Alfredo comes from this region.

Lets suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Provatura alla Salsa di Acciughe (Provatura Cheese with Anchovy Sauce). Then try Saltimbocca alla Romana (Veal and Ham Rolls). For dessert you can indulge yourself with Crostata di Ricotta (Ricotta Tart with Candied Fruit). And remember to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

Well terminate this article with a quick look at Latium wine. More than four out of five bottles produced here are white. There are twenty five DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine, twenty of them white. However, only about 6% of Latium wine is so classified. Frankly, the region is not known for its wine. It once was; in the distant past Falernum, a Latium red was the hit of Ancient Rome. Who knows, perhaps some day this region will regain its former glory when it comes to wine. In the meantime, theres lots to see and to eat. And plenty of fine Italian wines are available. North of Latium is Umbria, and north of Umbria is Tuscany. Boncompagni Ludovisis Fiorano Rosso is a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend from Latium that comes highly recommended but I have yet to taste it.

I Love Touring Italy – Campania West of Naples

If you are looking for a European tourist destination, consider the area west of Naples in the Campania region of southwestern Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea. You will find several small towns and two islands. While the area is not undiscovered it tends to be less touristy than many other parts of Italy including Campagnia on the other side of Naples, namely Sorrento and the Isle of Capri described in companion articles in this series. If youre in the neighborhood, be sure to visit Naples, described in another companion article in this series.

Well start our tour in Solfatara just west of Naples. Then we will head west to Pozzuoli and southwest to Baia. Well pop up north to Cumae. We finish our tour with some island hopping, first south to Procida, and then southwest to Ischia. The entire area is called Campi Flegrei (Fields of Fire) because it sits on molten lava. There is no reason to believe that volcanic eruptions are a thing of the past. And remember, the area is not far from Mount Vesuvius on the other side of Naples.

Solfatara is a semiextinct volcano whose most recent eruption was in 1198. Its name comes from the Latin sulpha terra for land of sulphur so you know what to expect. Solfatara is hardly attractive, unless you like to look at boiling mud. But as long as you stick to the path you should be safe. On the positive side the escaping vapors have been used for medicinal purposes since Roman times.

Pozzuoli is a fishing town that has become a suburb of Naples, hardly suprising given its proximity. The Greeks founded it in the Sixth Century B. C. Formerly the home of affluent Romans, its famous residents include St. Paul and Sofia Villani Scicolone better known by her professional name, Sophia Loren. Pozzuoli was damaged by volcanic eruptions during the Middle Ages and again in the 1970s. Youll want to see the Anfiteatro Flavio (Flavius Amphitheater), Italys third largest, that held 40,000 spectators. It hosts evening concerts in the summer.

Baia was perhaps the greatest Ancient Roman resort of them all. All the big shots including Caesar, Nero, and Tiberius had a home away from home in Baia. Cleopatra was visiting when Julius Caesar met his untimely end. For many people part of Baias attraction was its thermal, mineral waters said to have healing powers. Local excavations include the Temple of Mercury, the Baths of Mercury, the Baths of Sosandra, with the semicircular Theater of the Nymphs and a statue of Sosandra, the Temple of Venus, and the Baths of Venus.

Cumae was perhaps the first Greek colony on the Italian mainland, founded in the Eighth Century B. C. Youll want to see Antro della Sibilla (Sibyls Cave) considered by many people to be the most romantic classical site in all Italy. This cave, almost five hundred feet (one hundred thirty one meters) long, was carved out of solid rock. According to legend Sibyl was a prophet granted almost eternal life (as many years as the grains of sand in her handful) but she sadly forgot to request eternal youth. As she aged she shriveled so much that her body fit into a bottle that hung from a tree. In between uttering prophecies she begged for death.

Most present Cumae is underground. Make sure to see Lago dAverno (Lake Avernus), a volcanic crater lake that the Romans considered the entrance to Hades (Hell). According to legend, birds flying over the lake would die from the poisonous fumes. It was on these shores that Virgil wrote The Aeneid. Lets assume he didnt inhale.

Right near the coast you’ll find Procida, a densely populated island with about eleven thousand people jam packed into two square miles. This is about one third the population density of Hong Kong but Procida is the most densely populated island in all Europe. In spite of all that, Procida is beautiful and relatively undiscovered compared to the other islands off the coast of Campania. Try not to miss the Good Friday procession, an annual event since 1627. The island and its small fishing village Corricella were featured in the films Il Postino and The Talented Mr. Ripley, filmed in many Campania locations including the island of Ischia, described next.

We will finish our tour of this sometimes lovely area west of Naples at the island of Ischia, probably inhabited for thousands of years. Its almost sixty thousand inhabitants including thousands of German citizens live mostly from tourism with an estimated six million visitors a year. No, this is not one of the undiscovered gems that pop up from time to time. Over the millennia Ischia endured many conquests. Among the worst was in the mid-Sixteenth Century when the pirate Barbarossa devastated the island, taking four thousand prisoners in the process.

The Castello Aragonese (Aragonese Castle) is Ischias most heavily visited monument. It was built on a rock near the so-called mainland somewhat less than 2500 years ago. In 1441 the castle was linked to the island by a stone bridge. The nearby beach is fine and its waters may heal your ailments.

The La Mortella gardens belonged to the British composer William Walton and his Argentinean wife Susana, 23 years his junior. It is home to several thousand rare Mediterranean plants. After visiting the garden you can climb the long dormant volcano, Monte Epomeo, bathe in the Giardini Poseidon Terme (Poseidon Gardens Spa), or take a short boat trip to the village of Sant’Angelo on the southern coast.

What about food? Volcanic soil makes food tasty and plentiful and gives wine a special zest. The focus here tends to be on vegetables and fruits. Tomatoes are served every which way, including pizza and spaghetti of course. Try to taste the mozzarella cheese, made from the milk of water buffalo.

Lets suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Nero di Seppia (Spaghetti with Black Squid Ink). Then try Coniglio allIschitana (Rabbit simmered with Tomatoes). For dessert indulge yourself with Strufoli (Honey Balls). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a quick look at Campania wine. Campania ranks 9th among the 20 Italian regions for both acreage devoted to wine grapes and for total annual wine production. The region produces about 64% red and and close to 36% white wine, as there is little ros?There are17 DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Only 2.8% of Campania wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation. The G stands for Guarantita, and youll find three, the red Taurasi, the white Greco di Tufo, and the white Fiano di Avellino. I have tasted the Fiano and found it to be top of the line. A single DOC wine is produced west of Naples; the Ischia DOC whose region covers the entire island of Ischia and is made from a variety of local grapes. This wine may be red or white. The red may be dry or sweet, while the white may be still or sparkling. Frankly, Id go with the Fiano di Avellino.

I Love Touring Italy – Small Town Lombardy

If you are looking for a European tourist destination, consider the Lombardy region of northern Italy. Depending on your interests, this beautiful area might be an ideal vacation spot. You can get classic Italian food, and wash it down with fine local wine. There are even some parts of Lombardy that are relatively undiscovered by tourists. This article presents Lombardy outside of its capital Milan or the beautiful Lake districts, which are described in companion articles in this series.

Over the millennia Lombardy has been in the hands of numerous invaders including the Etruscans and the Gauls, then the Romans, Franks, and Goths, and finally the French, Spaniards, and Austrians. Did we forget the Lombards? These invaders all left their mark, some more and some less. Keep local history in mind as you tour this impressive region.

We begin our tour at Pavia about twenty-five miles (forty kilometers) south of Milan. Then we proceed southeast to Cremona. We continue east to finish this short tour at Mantua near the Veneto border.

Once upon a time little Pavia (population about 70 thousand) was a major rival of nearby Milan (city population about 1.3 million and metropolitan population over 5 million.) Its defeat by the Barbarians in 476 commonly marks the end of the Western Roman Empire. Almost nine hundred years later the internationally known University of Pavia was founded, based on a law and divinity school established by the year 825. Count Alessandro Giuseppe Antonio Anastasio Volta was the most famous individual associated with this university. It was Volta who discovered methane gas and invented the electric battery. Whenever you think about volts and voltage, you should think about Pavia.

Arguably the most famous native of Pavia was Benedetto Cairoli, the 13th and 15th Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Italy. He was somewhat of a hero during Risorgimento (the fight for Italian independence) but had a relatively undistinguished career as Prime Minister with a single exception. Cairoli risked his life and was severely wounded when he successfully protected the unpopular King Umberto I from assassination early in his reign. Now let’s consider Pavia’s sights.

Pavia is home to many other churches worth seeing. The Lombard-Romanesque San Michele Maggiore Church was constructed on the site of a preexisting Lombard church. Initially destroyed a few years after the turn of the first millennium it was rebuilt during the Twelfth Century. The Basilica of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro (St. Peter in Golden Sky) actually originated in the beginning of the Seventh Century. Its name refers to gold leaf mosaics that formerly decorated parts of the ceiling. This basilica was featured in Bocaccio’s Decameron. You may also want to see the Thirteenth Century brick Santa Maria del Carmine Church and the Renaissance Santa Maria di Canepanova Church.

Head about five miles (eight kilometers) north of town to see Pavia’s number one attraction, the Fifteenth Century Certosa di Pavia (Charterhouse of Pavia) monastery. This complex, which took over a century to build, is considered an excellent expression of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. It includes a great collection of paintings and stained glass windows. The church was meant to house the tombs of its owners, the noble Visconti family but only one family member is actually buried there. His tomb took over sixty years to build. Nearby is the tomb of another Duke and his wife Beatrice d’Este, a real Renaissance woman and a beauty as well, who died in childbirth at age 22. You may have heard of her sister-in-law, Lucrezia Borgia.

The city of Cremona, population about seventy thousand, was first settled well over two thousand years ago. The famous Roman poet Virgil went to school there and owned a family farm in the vicinity. Another name is indelibly linked to this city, that of Antonio Stradivari, the world’s greatest violinmaker. His masterpieces are simply the world’s best-known and most expensive stringed instruments. As they say about yachts, if you have to ask the price, you can’t afford it. It’s not sour grapes, but frankly what would I do with a Stradivari violin, or mandolin? Perhaps trade it for vintage wine and Champagne.

The violin as we know it was invented in Cremona around 1564 by Andrea Amati who died more than sixty years before Stradivari was born. The Guarneri family created world famous violins here and elsewhere in Italy. Today more than 50 violinmakers hang their hat in Cremona. The Piazza Roma square near Stradivari’s house and workshop contains his tombstone and grave. The city includes the Scuola Internazionale di Liuteria (International School of Violin Making) and the Museo Stradivariano (Stradivarius Museum)

Our next and final stop is the city of Mantua whose population is slightly under fifty thousand. Mantua may have been founded about four thousand years ago. The great Roman poet Virgil was born in a nearby village. In the Twelfth Century Mantua adopted a novel means of protection against invasion, by constructing four artificial lakes surrounding the city. Three of them exist to this day; the fourth dried up during the Eighteenth Century. If you remember your Shakespeare, Romeo fled to Mantua after killing Juliet’s cousin in a swordfight. Talk about a family feud.

Mantua’s Palazzo Ducale was built between the Fourteenth and Seventeenth Centuries and boasts some 500 rooms. Its centerpiece is the Camera degli Sposi (The Wedding Chamber) room that took Andrea Mantegna about seven years to paint. When you see it, you’ll know why. Since you’re only allowed ten minutes to admire this marvelous, unique room you should familiarize yourself with the painting before your allotted time slot. Don’t forget to look up, the ceiling is beautiful.

Finish your tour at the suburban Palazzo Te built in the Sixteenth Century. Unlike many other historic Italian buildings this one was completed in only ten years. In fact its shell went up in eighteen months. In spite of its speedy construction it is considered one of the greatest Renaissance palaces. Don’t forget to tour the Camera di Amore e Psiche (Cupid and Psyche’s Room) showing a wedding with quite interesting and unusual guests and the Camera dei Giganti (Room of the Titans) in which Jupiter expels the Titans from Mount Olympus. The walls are peppered with Seventeenth Century graffiti. Please don’t add your own.

What about food? Of Italy’s twenty regions Lombardy trails only Emilia-Romagna in food production. A lot of the food is of foreign origin, not surprising given the frequency with which Lombardy fell under outside domination. But there are also local specialties. For example, Cremona is known for Mostarda, mustard flavored candied fruits that accompany Bollito Misto, mixed boiled meats. A local version of this treat calls for calf’s head, veal tongue, and pig’s foot among others. Cremona also claims to have invented ravioli.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Zuppa alla Pavese (Soup with Bread, Butter, Eggs, and grated Parmesan Cheese). Then try Bollito Misto (Mixed Boiled Meats). For dessert indulge yourself with Colombe Pasquale (dove shaped Easter Bread with Candied Fruit). Increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a quick look at Lombardy wine. Lombardy ranks 11th among the 20 Italian regions for both acreage devoted to wine grapes and for total annual wine production. The region produces about 62% red and rose and 38% white wine, but there is little rose. There are 15 DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is absolutely no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Over 47% of Lombardy wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation. There are three DOCG wines: the sparkling Franciacorta said to compete with French Champagne and priced accordingly, the red Sforzato di Valtellina, and the red Valtellina Superiore.

Lambrusco Mantovano DOC is a red or rose dry or sweet fizzy wine produced southeast of Mantua from local grapes. The San Colombano al Lambro DOC is red or white still or fizzy wine made from a variety of local grapes found about halfway between Milan and Cremona. By far the area’s best-known wine is the Oltrepo Pavese DOC grown south of Pavia, across the Po River, hence its name. This wine, the favorite of Milan, is made in several styles from multiple grape varieties.

I Love Touring Italy – Bergamo and Lake Como

If you are in the mood for a European vacation, why not consider the city of Bergamo and Lake Como in the Lombardy region of northern Italy? Depending on your individual interests, this beautiful area might be an ideal vacation spot. You can savor classic Italian food, and wash it down with fine local wine. It is hardly undiscovered, but that shouldn’t stop you from going. With a little effort you should be able to find some relatively untouched spots. Be sure to read the companion articles in this series that present Milan, small town Lombardy outside of its capital Milan, and the Lake Garda district with its interesting political past.

We start our Lombardy tour at Bergamo east of the capital Milan. Then we head northeast to the shores of Lake Como and tour the lake in a counterclockwise direction exploring Bellagio, Villa Melzi, and Como at the southern tip of the lake and then head back up north stopping at the island of Isola Comacina, and then finishing our tour at Tremezzo with its centerpiece Villa Carlotta. If you so desire, continue your tour by heading west to Lake Maggiore and Lake Orta. You won’t be disappointed.

Bergamo, population about 120,000, was founded by the Celts well over two thousand years ago. It is the only city mentioned here that is not on or near a lake, but really that shouldn’t stop you from visiting. This medieval city, tucked behind ancient walls, overlooks or perhaps we should say underlooks the Alps. It is divided into two sectors connected by funiculars (cable cars); the older Bergamo Alta (Upper Bergamo) and the modern Bergamo Bassa (Lower Bergamo). Can you guess which Bergamo I prefer?

The large Romanesque Church of Santa Maria Maggiore was started in the Twelfth Century but its construction went on for centuries. The Torre Civica (Bell Tower) was completed towards the end of the Fifteenth Century. The church is right on the Piazza Vecchia (Old Square) in Bergamo Alta. Climb to the top for a great view of the Old City.

Bergamo was the birthplace and home of Gaetano Donizetti (1797-1848), composer of some 75 operas including the famous Lucia di Lammermoor, 16 symphonies, and a multitude of other musical works. He is buried in the Santa Maria Maggiore Church. If you like opera visit the Museo Donizettiano (Donizetti Museum.)

The Cathedral of San Vincenzo and Battistero are both situated on Piazza Duomo (Cathedral Square), the old heart of the medieval city and in all likelihood the heart of the Roman city way back when. Their lovelier neighbor is the Fifteenth Century Renaissance Capella Colleoni (Colleoni Chapel).

Lake Como is a glacial lake shaped like an upside Y. It is about 28 miles (54 kilometers) long and at most 2 miles (3 kilometers) wide making it the third largest lake in Italy. Lake Como is one of the deepest lakes in all Europe.

Bellagio, population three thousand, sits at the center of Lake Como’s Y. It was a tourist center even in the days of the Romans. The famous composers Liszt and Schubert vacationed here, as did the writers Pliny the Elder (Classical Roman), Longfellow, and Shelley. This town is so special that Las Vegas has honored it with a hotel. I don’t need to see both Bellagios to know which one I prefer. Try to get here outside the high season of July and August.

Be sure to see the Villa Serbelloni surrounded by acres and acres of gardens laid out in a multitude of styles. It is now an international conference center for scholars and artists.

Back in 1801-1803 Count Francesco Melzi d’Eril was Vice-President of Napoleon’s Italian Republic. Several years later, perhaps to drown his sorrows over the Republic’s brevity, he built the Neo-Classical Villa Melzi in the south end of Bellagio right on the lake. Its garden, the only part of the Villa open to the public, is said to be the first example of an English garden on Lake Como. The spectacular garden includes a Japanese pond complete with waterlilies surrounded by Japanese maples and cedars, Egyptian sculptures, and Roman statues.

Como, population about sixty thousand, is situated at the very southern tip of Lake Como. Would you believe that it took Lombardy’s capital city Milan nearly a decade to defeat little Como way back in the Twelfth Century? Not very long afterwards, Frederick I, the Holy Roman Emperor, destroyed Milan and built several defensive towers ringing Como. Only the Bardadello Tower still remains. Climb up it and get a great view of the entire lake.

Like most Italian cities, Como has a fine series of old churches to tour. Here are some of them: The Duomo (Cathedral) a Fourteenth Century Renaissance-Gothic structure with statues of two of the city’s most famous residents, Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger from Classical Roman times; San Fedele, an Eleventh Century Romanesque church with a beautifully carved door; and Sant’Agostino, Fourteenth Century Cistercian church proud of its old frescoes and Baroque decorations.

Italy produces over 90% of Europe’s silk and most Italian silk is produced in the Como region. Italian silk is a billion Euro (far exceeding a billion Dollar) industry. Find out more at the Museo Didacttico della Seta (Silk Museum). You can shop for fine silks at many nearby stores and warehouse outlets.

Isola Comacina (Comacina Island) is the only island in Lake Como. Do you remember the lengthy wars between Como and Milan? Well at that time the island residents sided with Milan and there was hell to pay. In the words of the then Bishop “No longer shall bells ring, no stone shall be put on stone, nobody shall be host, under pain of unnatural death.” At the start of World War I Isola Comacina was given to the King of Belgium who donated it to Italy after the war. It now hosts artists and scholars.

Head north to the resort town Tremezzo, population 1300. Its highlight is Villa Carlotta, built during a fifty some year period starting towards the end of the Seventeenth Century. When you see this villa you’ll know why it took so long to construct. The grounds are spectacular including for example more than 150 varieties of azelias and rhododendrons. Its art museum is dedicated to neoclassical art. For a change of pace, visit the Museum of Agricultural Tools located in an ancient greenhouse on the property. While the Villa Carlotta does not rent to tourists, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo is definitely quite classy.

What about food? In this part of Lombardy the cuisine is divided into three main sectors. The lake cuisine specializes in fish with some local favorites such as dried shad. The area around Tremezzo is known for vegetables such as asparagus. The mountain cuisine is based on polenta, a sort of corn bread often flavored with cheese or cheese, butter, and garlic. Other mountain specialties include free-range chickens, kid, and game. The third category is valley cuisine based on cattle and cheese, especially Taleggio and various goat milk cheeses.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Fettuccine con Funghi (Fettuccine with Mushrooms.) Then try Agnoni all Comasca (Lake Como Fried Fish with Anchovy Filets). For dessert indulge yourself with Torte Paradiso con Mascarpone (Sponge Cake with Mascarpone Cheese.) Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a quick look at Lombardy wine. Lombardy ranks number 11 of the 20 Italian regions when it comes to acreage devoted to wine grapes and the total annual wine production. The region produces about 62% red and ros?nd 38% white wine, but there is little ros?There are 15 DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Over 47% of Lombardy wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation. There are three DOCG wines: the sparkling Franciacorta said to compete with French Champagne and priced accordingly, the red Sforzato di Valtellina, and the red Valtellina Superiore.

Interestingly enough no DOC wines originate in the vicinity of Lake Como, Lake Orta, or Lake Maggiore. However, Bergamo is home to two DOC wines, Valcalepio and Scanzo/Moscato di Scanzo. The Valcalepio DOC is vinified in several styles. The dry red and the dry white come from international grape varieties such as Merlot and Chardonnay. The sweet white wine comes from a local grape and has recently been classified at the Scanzo/Moscato di Scanzo DOC. I have not had the pleasure of tasting either of these wines. I have had the disappointment of tasting the sparkling Franciacorta DOCG wine made not far east of Bergamo.

I Love Touring Italy – Turin, Piedmont

If you are looking for a European tourist destination, consider the Piedmont region of northern Italy. Depending on your interests, this beautiful area might be an ideal vacation spot. You can get classic Italian food, and wash it down with fine local wine. There are even some parts of Piedmont that haven’t yet been discovered by tourists. This article presents Turin, the capital and largest city of the Piedmont. A companion article presents the rest of the Piedmont region.

Piedmont means foot of the mountains, and that describes the area perfectly. Turin, in the center of Piedmont, is pretty well surrounded by hills and by mountains such as the Alps. While the setting is beautiful, don’t expect a Mediterranean climate such as found in most of Italy. The Piedmont climate is continental, with cold winters and hot summers, especially in the plains.

While Turin’s population is slightly over nine hundred thousand, the population of its metropolitan area is well over two million. About one half of the Piedmont residents live in the greater Turin area. In a sense the 2006 Winter Olympics have put Turin on the tourist map and played a major role in its continuing development. As you will see, Turin, center of Italy’s automobile manufacturing, is not just an industrial city.

This city was once a walled Roman military camp. Like so much of Italy, Turin and the entire Piedmont region was occupied again and again. You may be surprised to learn that the French House of Savoy ruled Piedmont for about five hundred years. They even returned to power after Napoleon’s defeat. Not surprisingly a lot of French influence remains. Piedmont played a major role in the Risorgimento (Italian Unity Movement). Turin was the first capital of the United Kingdom of Italy between 1861 and 1865 ruled by Victor Emmanuel II, a Savoyard.

We’ll start our tour of Turin downtown. The Duomo di San Giovanni (St. John’s Cathedral) dates back to the Fifteenth Century. Its chapel Cappella della Sacra Sindone (Chapel of the Holy Shroud) contained the famous Shroud of Turin, brought to Turin in the Sixteenth Century by a member of the Savoy royal family. In 1997 a fire damaged the chapel, which was closed until further notice. You can see a copy of this shroud near the Duomo’s altar. But the Shroud itself is next scheduled for public display in 2025.

Other downtown churches worth seeing include the Seventeenth Century San Lorenzo (St. Lawrence) and the twin baroque San Carlo and Santa Cristina Churches. Cross the Po River to see the Nineteenth Century Chiesa della Gran Madre di Dio (Church of the Great Mother of God) said to be constructed over the Holy Grail and the Sixteenth Century Chiesa della Santa Maria del Monte (Church of St. Maria of the Mountain). Next door is a small but interesting museum devoted to mountains and mountain climbing, Museo Nazionale della Montagna (National Mountain Museum).

Talking about museums, a must see is the Museo Egizio (Egyptian Museum) considered to be one of the best in the world. For example, it contains hundreds of mummies and a burial chamber that’s so complete it includes drafting tools, a cosmetic case, and a contemporary board game. Jean-François Champollion, the individual who first deciphered Egyptian hieroglyphics, wrote “The road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin”. GAM, the Galleria Civic d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea (Civic Modern and Contemporary Art Gallery) on the edge of downtown is devoted to Italian contemporary art covering much more than the last one hundred years.

It is fitting that Italy’s Detroit should host the Museo dell’Automobile (Automobile Museum). When they say antique cars, they mean antique cars, dating back to 1896. And what cars, the collection includes the first FIAT model, Bugattis, Ferraris, and actress Gloria Swanson’s Isotta Franchini from the movie Sunset Boulevard.

The Borgo Medioevale (Medieval Village), built on the banks of the Po River more than one hundred years ago, represents a Fifteenth Century Piedmont village. Most Borgo buildings are copies of medieval buildings that really exist somewhere in the Piedmont. You’ll love the Rocca Medioevale (Medieval Castle) in the middle of the site.

Talking about castles, you won’t want to miss the Palazzo Madama (Madame’s Palace) situated in the Piazza Castello (Castle Plaza). This building, named for the Savoy Queen Maria Christina, once housed the Italian Senate. Do not confuse it with a building of the same name in Rome that houses the present Italian Senate. Like so many other Italian buildings the Turin Palazzo Madama houses temporary art exhibitions.

The nearby Seventeenth Century Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace) on the site of an ancient Roman city gate was the Savoy royal residence until 1865. You can visit some of the royal apartments and admire the tapestries, furniture, and royal gardens. A few blocks away is the birthplace of the first king of united Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II. Don’t expect a shack, it’s the majestic Palazzo Carignano that served as the seat of united Italy’s first parliament from 1860 to 1865. This Palazzo houses the Museo del Risorgimento (National Museum of the Italian Renaissance) devoted to the national unity movement.

While there are many, many other places of interest in Turin, we conclude by examining what is probably Turin’s best-known landmark, the Mole Antonelliana, the official emblem of the 2006 Winter Olympics. This building, once the world’s tallest brick structure, was originally supposed to be a synagogue but never served as such. It houses the Museo Nazionale del Cinema (National Cinema Museum) with a film library containing seven thousand films.

What about food? The Piedmont region is well known for all kinds of food, often with a French style. Don’t forget that it was ruled by the French House of Savoy for over five hundred years. Turin claims to have invented solid chocolate. Once upon a time, if you wanted a chocolate fix, you needed a cup or a glass. Of course, you still can get great chocolate drinks in Turin. For example, the house specialty of the world famous Al Bicerin is a hot drink brimming with chocolate, coffee, and cream. They even sell chocolate-flavored pasta. La Dolce Vita. Grissini (Bread Sticks) were also invented in Turin. Turin’s real thing is quite different from the store-bought version thousands of miles away.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Risotto al Barbaresco (Risotto cooked in Barbaresco wine). Then try Vitello Tonnato (Veal in Tuna Sauce). For dessert indulge yourself with Grandiuto (Chocolate with Cocoa, Hazelnuts, and Sugar). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We’ll conclude with a brief look at Piedmont wine. Well over half the region’s wine production is either DOC or DOCG wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. At last count there were 44 such wines coming from Piedmont. Add a G for Guarantita and there are seven such Piedmont wines, including Barolo, felt by many to be Italy’s finest red wine, and Barbaresco. But Piedmont also produces many fine DOC or unclassified wines.

I Love Touring Italy – Milan

If you are looking for a European tourist destination, consider the city of Milan in the Lombardy region of northern Italy. Milan whose population exceeds 1.3 million (the urban area is well over 5 million) is hardly undiscovered by tourists. But as Italy’s media and finance capital it is definitely less tourist infested than many, many other Italian cites. Milan is often considered to be Italy’s most European city. Is that a reason not to go visit? On the other hand, Milan is Italy’s fashion capital and one of the great fashion capitals of Europe, which is an excellent reason for stopping by. (We’ll let you decide which is more chic, Milan or Paris.) You really should consider visiting Milan, as well as other Lombardy destinations, described in companion articles in this series.

Over the millennia Lombardy has been in the hands of numerous invaders including the Etruscans and the Gauls, then the Romans, Franks, and Goths, and finally the French, Spaniards, and Austrians. Did we forget the Lombards? All of these invaders left their mark, some more and some less. Keep the region’s history in mind as you tour this impressive city.

We start our Milan tour with the Gothic Duomo (Cathedral) whose ground was broken in 1386 under the first duke of Milan and yet was only finished in time for Napoleon’s coronation as King of Italy in 1809. With a capacity estimated to be forty thousand it is Italy’s second largest church; only St. Peter’s Cathedral in Rome is bigger. To get an idea of its immensity, the Milan cathedral boasts 135 marble spires and contains well over two thousand marble statues. Yet in spite of its size and central location those who seek refuge from the outside world (believe me, central Milan hustles and bustles) can usually step inside and find a solitary corner. There has been a church at this prime Milan location since at least the beginning of the Fifth Century.

The Duomo’s architecture and art are certainly worthy of an extended visit. Let’s quote Mark Twain in his famous travelogue Innocents Abroad: “The central one of its five great doors is bordered with a bas-relief of birds and fruits and beasts and insects, which have been so ingeniously carved out of the marble that they seem like living creatures — and the figures are so numerous and the design so complex, that one might study it a week without exhausting its interest…everywhere that a niche or a perch can be found about the enormous building, from summit to base, there is a marble statue, and every statue is a study in itself… [and to sum up] They say that the Cathedral of Milan is second only to St. Peter’s at Rome. I cannot understand how it can be second to anything made by human hands.”

Right next door to the cathedral is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, a Nineteenth Century upscale shopping mall named for the first king of united Italy. Shortly prior to its completion in 1877 the designer fell from scaffolding to his death. Talk about grandiose; the gallery stretches some 640 feet (about 200 meters) from the Cathedral to the Opera House. Its arcade is 96 feet (about 30 meters) high and the octagonal glass dome is considerably higher. The Galleria is one great place for shopping and people watching, but bargains are to be found elsewhere. Should you so desire the Park Hyatt Hotel is right nearby and presumably you could “do” Milan with a four-point landing; the Cathedral, the Galleria, the Hotel, and the Opera House (described next). Don’t; there is a lot more to see and do.

To many people the Teatro alla Scala (La Scala Opera House) is another cathedral. The season runs for some six months, and because there are fewer than three thousand seats you have to scramble for a ticket. La Scala’s beauty is matched only by its magnificent acoustics. Needless to say the performances are top of the line. And make sure to visit the Museo Teatrale alla Scala.

Other Milan museums include the Nineteenth Century Museo Poldi-Pezzoli devoted to paintings including Botticelli and Bellini, porcelain, and textiles, the Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Gallery) whose collection spans the centuries (Fifteenth to Twentieth), and Villa Belgioioso Bonaparte – Museo dell’Ottocento previously known as the Galleria di Arte Moderna. The Fifteenth Century Santa Maria delle Grazie Church (Saint Mary of the Graces) is worth seeing on its own. Its refectory houses a recently restored da Vinci masterpiece, Il Cenacolo, perhaps better known by its English-language name, The Last Supper. Please note that you must reserve well in advance to get a fifteen-minute look at this masterpiece.

Still other Milan museums include the Museo Civico Archeologico (Municipal Archeological Museum, the Museo Nazionale della Scienzo e Technica (National Museum of Science and Technology) with paintings and technical drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, and the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana art gallery with the adjoining Biblioteca Ambrosiana. Make sure to visit the Museo Civico de Storia Naturale (Municipal Natural History Museum) along with its adjoining planetarium and Giardini Pubblici (Public Gardens). The latter is extra fun for the little ones with its pony rides, merry-go-round, and miniature train.

What about food? Of Italy’s twenty regions Lombardy trails only Emilia-Romagna in food production. Much of the food has a foreign origin, hardly a surprise when you think how often Lombardy fell under outside domination. For example, the Spanish brought saffron and rice, two major components of Milan’s saffron risotto. Lombardy may be home to the only buckwheat pasta in all Italy.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Risotto alla Milanese (Risotto with Saffron). Then try Costoletta alla Milanese (Veal Chop Milanese Style). For dessert indulge yourself with Panettone (Milanese Christmas Cake). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a quick look at Lombardy wine. Lombardy ranks 11th among the 20 Italian regions for both the acreage devoted to wine grapes and for its total annual wine production. This region produces about 62% red and rose and 38% white wine, but there is little rose. There are 15 DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Over 47% of Lombardy wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation. There are three DOCG wines: the sparkling, pricey Franciacorta, considered a competitor of French Champagne, the red Sforzato di Valtellina, and the red Valtellina Superiore.

No DOC or DOCG wine is produced near Milan. Given its place in the business world one may assume that a lot of Franciacorta is consumed in Milanese restaurants and bars. I recently shared a bottle of rose Franciacorta with my wine tasting group ‘ and was quite disappointed. I recall that the general consensus was fair to middling, which in no way justified this bubbly’s price nor its reputation.

I Love Touring Italy – Southern Veneto

If you are planning a European tour, why don’t you consider the Veneto region of northern Italy on the Gulf of Venice? Venice is its best-known city and one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. But the Veneto region has a lot more than this great city. There are excellent tourist attractions elsewhere, and you won’t have to fight the huge crowds. With a little luck you’ll avoid tourist traps, and come back home feeling that you have truly visited Italy. This article examines tourist attractions in southern Veneto. Be sure to read our companion articles on northern Veneto, on that Shakespearean city of Verona, and on the university city of Padua.

Our tour of southern Veneto resembles a circle; one that isn’t quite closed. We start our tour in the central Veneto city of Vicenza, one of the wealthiest cities in Italy. We bypass Padua and go southeast to the coastal town of Chioggia. Then we head back southwest to Rovigo, and then finish our tour by going northwest to Montagnana. We could continue north back to Vicenza. Or we could visit other parts of Veneto.

Vicenza, population one hundred twenty thousand, has had a checkered past. Over the centuries it passed from one occupier to another. Its heyday was in the Sixteenth Century as the home of Andrea Palladio, often said to be the most influential person in the history of Western architecture. He designed many of the city’s buildings and all over the Veneto region. About two dozen of his Veneto villas compose a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Palladio was a major influence on Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello, and probably on half of the state capitol buildings in the United States. Don’t even think about touring Vicenza without visiting several of his masterpieces.

The Teatro Olimpico (Olympic Theatre) is Palladio’s last work and one of his best. It is widely considered the first modern example of an enclosed theater. Actually he died six months into its construction but this magnificent building was completed from his sketches and drawings. The building includes five hallways designed to look like streets; each spectator has a view of at least one street. Unfortunately the theater was abandoned after a few performances. The Teatro Olimpico now hosts productions, but only in the summer because winter heating might damage its fragile wood structures.

Palazzo Chiericati is a Renaissance palace that took well over a century to complete. It was built in an area called Piazza dell’Isola (Island Square, now Piazza Matteotti), surrounded by two streams. It became the Museo Civico (Town Museum) in 1855 and, more recently, the City’s Art Gallery.

We have left arguably Palladio’s greatest work for last. Villa La Rotunda whose full name is Villa Almerico-Capra in honor of the Capra brothers who finished the building. This villa was inspired by the Pantheon in Rome and has been the inspiration for perhaps a thousand buildings across the globe. Strictly speaking Villa La Rotunda should not be called a rotunda; it isn’t circular but takes the shape of a cross grafted on a square. While the edifice appears completely symmetrical in fact it isn’t. No mistake here, it was designed to fit perfectly into its surroundings and the city of Vicenza on the horizon. Neither Palladio nor its owner lived to see it completed.

Chioggia whose population is some fifty thousand was once the center of local salt production. Perhaps that’s why Genoa destroyed it more than six hundred years ago. Chioggia returned as a fishing port and a tourist attraction. It’s on the Venetian Lagoon about an hour’s boat ride from Venice that it resembles with its canals and Venetian architecture. You’ll enjoy strolling on the Corso del Popolo (the People’s Thoroughfare) with its cafes, restaurants and shops. Chioggia’s Cathedral is old enough to have been restored in the Fourteenth Century. Other sites of interest include the Campanile (Bell Tower) about two hundred ten feet (sixty four meters) high and the Fourteenth Century Gothic church of San Martino.

The town of Rovigo, population about fifty thousand, is rich in history and culture. Its most famous cultural institution is the St. Stephen Cathedral built prior to the Eleventh Century and rebuilt in the Fifteenth and the Seventeenth Centuries. Be sure to see its interior artwork. Other churches worth visiting include the Thirteenth Century Immacolata Concezione (Immaculate Conception), and the Fourteenth-Fifteenth Century Gothic-Romanesque Church of St. Francis.

Several Rovigo Piazzas (Squares) have maintained their historic character. The largest is dedicated to Emperor Victor Emmanuel II and is the site of several palaces. Palazzo Nodari has become the city hall. Palazzo Roncale has become Pinacoteca dei Concordi (Concordi Gallery), one of the most important art galleries in Veneto. The building dates back to the end of the Sixteenth Century and many displayed paintings predate the building itself. The Fifteenth Century Gothic Duomo (Cathedral) faces this Piazza. Given its many restorations and renovations Romanesque and Renaissance period features abound. The Piazza has a statue to the emperor and a Saint Mark’s lion.

How can you tell if a Veneto town is peaceful or not? The answer is quite simple; go to its Leone di San Marco (Saint Mark’s Lion) statue. Take a close look at the tail. If the tail points down the town is peaceful. If it points up watch out; there may be trouble. The tail on Rovigo’s lion pointed down. This call for peace didn’t stop Napoleon’s soldiers from destroying the statue. The statue that you see today was erected in 1881, and its tail still points down.

Montagnana, population about nine thousand, is a medieval city surrounded by walls with four gates and twenty-four fortified towers resembling castles. This city is really unique and you should see it from outside the walls when the sun is setting. Montagnana dates back to the Thirteenth Century when the town was rebuilt. Its highlight is the Castello San Zeno (Saint Zeno Castle) built by the infamous Italian dictator Ezzelino da Romano, who previously ordered the city burnt to the ground. Mister da Romano actually merited mention in Dante’s Divine Comedy where his soul was consigned to you know where. In a sense one has to thank him for one majestic castle, originally set inside a dry moat and built around a center courtyard. The moat, crossed by a drawbridge, was filled in during the 19th century. The Castle’s highest tower, the mastio or donjon, is open to the public and provides fabulous views. Castle San Zeno also houses the Municipal Historical Archive, the town Library, a Theatre Company, and a Study Center devoted to the protection of the castle and its surroundings, with quite a collection of books, maps, artifacts, and other items of historical significance.

What about food? Despite the great variety of food in this once poor but now fairly well off part of Italy many people often ate foods that we might find strange. I’m not talking about lamb and sheep’s milk cheese from the Rovigo area. Pigeon is a specialty both in Padua and other localities. A Padua specialty that I haven’t tasted is made from salted, dried, and smoked horsemeat.

We’ll suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Risotto Nero (Risotto with Cuttlefish). If you don’t like Cuttlefish and its ink you won’t have trouble finding many other Risottos. Then try Baccal?antecato (Dried Cod with Nutmeg, Parsley, and Olive Oil). For dessert indulge yourself with Salame al Cioccolato (Chocolate Salami, Shortbread Biscuits, Figs, Butter, and Cocoa). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We’ll conclude with a quick look at Veneto wine. Veneto ranks 3rd among the 20 Italian regions both for the area planted in grape vines and for its total annual wine production. About 45% of Veneto wine is red or ros?leaving 55% for white. The region produces 24 DOC wines and 3 DOCG wines, Recioto di Soave, Soave Superiore, and Bardolino Superiore. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Almost 30% of Venetian wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation.

Bardolino Superiore DOCG is produced west and northwest of Verona near Lake Garda from a variety of Italian and international red grapes. This wine is living proof that Garantita is no guarantee of high quality, some are and some are not.